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When curating a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect well-known award-winning venues. However, tucked prominently among these gastronomic giants is a simple salonu situated in a outlying part of northern London.

An Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish eatery, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been crowned the 4th top restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. The honour has made the family totally surprised.

“I am completely surprised,” states a owner’s son, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that led to their humble place securing such a high position on a notable 99-strong list.

The Charm of Modesty

This small shop, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing spot, has maintained much of its earlier feel. It seats just more than 20 people and, beyond the dazzling live cooking show, the layout remains essentially unchanged. “It is a small and stocky place,” comments the owner.

The Signature Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment certainly succeeds. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a simple pleasure. The meat—either lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a tender consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. When the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the tasty meat is folded tightly inside.

It is typically enjoyed with a drop of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a powerful slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is cut up and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic described this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe goes down a delight. It is soaked in less syrup than is typical, imparting it a richer, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, similar meals at luxury establishments can cost many times that amount.

A Philosophy of Warmth

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well outside the city’s prime zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” explains the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he were in a role of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of overcomplication, and to demonstrate what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Journey of Perseverance

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s top ten, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite restaurants. “I feel very happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was really tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would handle all of this. She is a single mum and she managed a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. All of these duties forged her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

A Achievement for the Culture

The restaurant’s accolade is set to echo beyond its own doors. “I think a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, emphasising the wider importance of this gastronomic honour.